This is a tricky one. Is it the peer of the peerless 2023, a wine that was as effortless as any I have ever made? No, is the answer, but I have a little feeling that many of you will prefer it. A trademark assault to the senses of flint and funk and ripe acidity, yet this wine, given the season, has more flesh on its bones and strays slightly to riper fruits. See what you think; my feeling is that it’s a very cool incarnation of the coolest of cool vineyards in a warm year.
The fruit is, of course, from a single site, the Forrest Vineyard in the Wilyabrup sub-region of Margaret River. Moreover, this wine is from a small section of the vineyard’s middle ridge, carefully selected for this wine. Planted to the classic WA Gin Gin clone, it is a wine of unbelievable natural acid presence and structural drive. The vineyard is otherwise largely flat and quite close to the coast—only about 3km— and it is planted on deep silver-grey sands. The picking date is generally relatively early in the Chardonnay season, given the vineyard’s low-yielding nature. The grapes were handpicked on 25th January, a month earlier than in 2023. Weird as. Pressed as bunches directly to new, one- and two-year-old puncheons, with no settling or fining processes. This juice was then carefully monitored, and spontaneous fermentation kicked off on day five after pressing. After a four-week ferment, the wine remained on gross lees unsulphured until October of that year. In December, the wine was emptied from barrel, settled, filtered and bottled.
This is an exciting site that holds amazing acid structure and lovely, al dente tannin. This vintage is more expressive and generous than some, and it is already shining. Flint, funk, ripe white stone fruit, brown lime and passion. You can taste passions, all the different kinds. This wine inspires me to strive harder each year and bring all my passion for winemaking to bear.