Ok, I fucked up….. In fact, it wasn’t my fault your honour, it was whoever didn’t follow my instructions to put the barrels in a nice warm spot and left them in the cold. So yes, I did fuck up as that’s the shit you need to follow up. As such this wine stopped fermenting leaving some sugar behind and sweet Chardonnay is not a thing. Needless to say, I was more than a little upset and dealt with the problem by ignoring it. Come late spring after 100% natural Malolactic fermentation was complete the wine started fermenting again and the majority of the barrels went completely dry. A Chardonnay flavoured phoenix arising from the ashes.
So, what did this mean for my Phoenix? It’s a different wine it’s fair to say, it’s oakier than usual, lower in acidity and more exotic in flavour and texture. Reading this back… that does actually sound ok and I must say that the wine is epic just in a different way than usual. Single vineyard wines are just that and this is the face of that vineyard’s terroir in 2025. Come revel in the season that was, it tastes of destiny.
The fruit is, of course, from a single site, the Forrest Vineyard in the Wilyabrup sub-region of Margaret River. Moreover, this wine is from a small section of the vineyard’s middle ridge, carefully selected for this wine. Planted to the classic WA Gin Gin clone, it is a wine of unbelievable natural acid presence and structural drive. The vineyard is otherwise largely flat and quite close to the coast—only about 3km— and it is planted on deep silver-grey sands. The picking date is generally relatively early in the Chardonnay season, given the vineyard’s low-yielding nature.
The grapes were handpicked on 20th February, a month later than in 2024. Pressed as whole bunches directly to new, one- and two-year-old puncheons, with no settling or fining processes. This juice was then carefully monitored, and spontaneous fermentation kicked off on day five after pressing. After a four-week ferment, the wine remained on gross lees unsulphured, until November of that year. In December, the wine was emptied from barrel, settled, filtered and bottled. The final blend is 40% new oak which is more than usual.
This is my favourite chardonnay site that holds amazing acid structure and lovely, al dente tannin. This vintage is more expressive and generous than some, more exotic and textural. Flint, funk, warm spice ripe white stone fruit, brown lime and luck. You can taste the luck and everyone needs some luck sometimes.